Some household laminators will do, just be sure it supports the extra thickness of a circuit board and possibly cardboard to help it along. I got a generic A3 laminator from AliExpress which has a temperature setting and adjustable springs. It has no brand name, but if you search for "A3 laminator" it's the one that looks like this:
Many people use a laser printer, but the ones I had did not deposit enough toner to work all that well. For an inkjet printer the best results are achieved with inks based on pigments instead of dyes.
The printer I use is a Canon PIXMA iP7250, which is not all that expensive. For any Canon use the official "PGI" range or cartridges, as these are pigment based. With these I do not need to double up on transparencies to get great results.
I don't use boards with a presensitized photoresist layer, so any plain single or double sided board will do. Don't get the cheap cardboard ones though.
Adding the film yourself is a bit of extra work, but allows you to retry if the exposure fails. Replacing the film is a lot cheaper than wasting copper.
UV curable paint which can be used to create a solder mask.
The set I got comes in little syringe tubes in various colours and were ordered from AliExpress.
## Chemicals
Note: I forgot most of my chemistry lessons, so any chemist will probably yell at me for getting the mixes all wrong. They are not accurate by a long stretch. They are however good enough to work well for my purpose.
### Sodium metasilicate
Used to develop the photosensitive film. The recommended solution is 4,8%.
Added 100 ml of the sodium metasilicate solution to 750 ml of demineralised water.
### Ferric chloride
Used to do the actual etching. You can get it in solid form and dilute it yourself, but since I don't use that much I just get it premixed to 40% in 1 liter bottles, which can be used straight up:
