From 26007629a04c80f7a3c22ddf49f5fb49e553b95b Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Mark van Renswoude Date: Wed, 7 Nov 2018 21:31:00 +0100 Subject: [PATCH] Updated bom (markdown) --- electronics/bom.md | 23 +++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 23 insertions(+) diff --git a/electronics/bom.md b/electronics/bom.md index f5b22dc..ddb40a1 100644 --- a/electronics/bom.md +++ b/electronics/bom.md @@ -1,2 +1,25 @@ # Tools and materials +[[_TOC_]] + + +#### Laminator +Some household laminators will do, just be sure it supports the extra thickness of a circuit board and possibly cardboard to help it along. I got a generic A3 laminator from AliExpress which has a temperature setting and adjustable springs. It has no brand name, but if you search for "A3 laminator" it's the one that looks like this: + +[[laminator.png]] + +#### Printer +Many people use a laser printer, but the ones I had did not deposit enough toner to work all that well. For an inkjet printer the best results are achieved with inks based on pigments instead of dyes. + +The printer I use is a Canon PIXMA iP7250, which is not all that expensive. For any Canon use the official "PGI" range or cartridges, as these are pigment based. With these I do not need to double up on transparencies to get great results. + +#### Transparencies +Use transparencies designed for your printer type. The ones I use are Esselte 57161. + +#### Circuit board +I don't use boards with a presensitized photoresist layer, so any plain single or double sided board will do. Don't get the cheap cardboard ones though. + +Adding the film yourself is a bit of extra work, but allows you to retry if the exposure fails. Replacing the film is a lot cheaper than wasting copper. + +#### Photosensitive film +Search eBay for "photosensitive dry film PCB". The rolls are blue and typically come in 30cm x 5m.